gleamed issue no. 4
A dreamy guide to Puglia, cloud cotton, a cocktail recipe and more.
Hi friends! Welcome to the fourth issue of gleamed.
When I first thought of the idea for gleamed last summer, the plan was to start with a standalone guide to Puglia, Italy. As life would have it, the project was unfortunately pushed to the back burner, until now.
That is why I’m so excited to finally share my guide to Italy’s heel in this week’s issue, and have had so much fun reliving the memories from such a stunning trip.
With that all said, it’s easy to let the everyday struggles of life get in the way of starting something new, but sometimes you just have to shrug that practical doubt aside. Now that gleamed is up and on the road, I plan on publishing tons of curated guides to help you find your next favorite trip, with none of the mainstream BS one might find in a larger publication’s itineraries. My belief is that the best travel should take you down your own pathways, and my guides are meant to lead you to the start of them.
Finally, if you have any suggestions or requests as this newsletter is taking shape, my inbox is always open!
This week I’m feeling…cloud cotton
As we finally begin to tiptoe our way out of the crushing summer heat, I’m starting to think about transitional materials. My favorite fabrics are the ones that feel tactile and add unique texture, whether it’s part of an outfit or a piece in your home. For summer, one of those materials is linen, and for winter it’s shag or boucle. Meanwhile, a transitional and all-weather favorite is cloud cotton—whose name was coined (to my knowledge) by Parachute.
I love that it has the breathability and softness of cotton, but with a ridged and rippled texture similar to thick muslin, which makes it way more interesting to look at and to feel. It’s perfect for that “clean” and organic, minimalist vibe.
The cloud cotton items from Parachute are obviously dreamy (they’ve become so popular they now make everything from shams to table runners). I own a robe, but their most classic item is definitely their bed quilt. Prices are steep, but there are more affordable options on Etsy and Amazon. I’m also obsessed with these breezy cloud cotton bubble pants and button down by women-owned sustainable brand, Donni.
Below, find my end of summer vibe board.
A petite story…your romantic guide to Puglia, Italy
One of, if not the, most romantic trip I’ve ever taken in my life was to Puglia, Italy. The whole experience felt like a dream from touchdown.
Located on the heel of Italy’s boot, Puglia isn’t known for one large hub city, but rather is comprised of a speckling of tiny towns each with their own unique character. Renting a car is an absolute necessity on a trip to Puglia, and if you aren’t able to drive stick get ready to pay potentially twice the price for an automatic vehicle. Regardless, it’s totally worth it, as you zip around the Italian countryside past miles of olive groves and charming conical clay homes called Trulli.
Start in Bari
You’ll start your Puglian journey in the port city of Bari, where most visitors fly into. Rather than immediately jet off to your next destination, I recommend giving yourself at least a good 24 hours in Bari. We arrived at night and were gone by the next afternoon, and wished that we had more time there.
A perfect morning in Bari starts with a visit to Strada Arco Basso, a small alleyway where you can find a number of older women set up at small folding tables, hand-making rounded pieces of orecchiette pasta. Make sure to grab a dried bag to bring home. Next, stroll through the cobblestone walkways over to Panaficio Fiore to grab a fresh slice of focaccia smothered in flavorful tomatoes—honestly one of our favorite bites we’ve ever had. By night, the Piazza Mercantile is abuzz with life, and the place to head for a fried panzerotto: pizza dough stuffed with mozzarella, and then to a bar for a refreshing Americano (a low ABV negroni-esque cocktail, sans gin).
Time to wander
After leaving Bari, head further south to Alberobello and Locorotondo, two distinct towns both known for their unique architecture. Alberobello is where you can find trulli—whitewashed homes topped with conical roofs. You can also stay the night inside of one. Close by Locorotondo on the other hand is a place to get lost for an afternoon. It’s not a town with many specific “must-do’s,” because the town itself is the must do. It’s a place for wandering, living slowly, and sipping on many an Aperol spritz. I recommend having one on Mandragora’s outdoor patio, and strolling the alleyways behind it, by the Palazzo Morelli. Both Locorotondo and Alberobello can be done in 24 hours.
Next, an absolute non-negotiable while in Puglia is at least 48 hours spent in Matera: a stunningly beautiful city and the world’s third oldest. First, read up on its fascinating history, then book a room in one of the many ancient cave hotels. We stayed at Sextantio Le Grotte Della Civita—the hotel which was actually the inspiration for our trip to the region in the first place. Matera is another destination to provide yourself ample time to meander, shop for unique ceramic wares, visit the Salvatore Dalí museum, grab gelato, sip on incredible cocktails, and more. Make sure to pack steady walking shoes with good grip, since many of the ancient stone steps and pathways are now slippery from wear.
Head to the water
When it’s time to have a real night out on the town, drive around two hours over to Lecce, which besides its nightlife has arguably the best “modern” shopping in the region. There’s still a real sense of history in Lecce, but also a vibrant energy that’s infectious. We stayed at both Pollicastro Boutique Hotel, hidden behind a grand wooden door in the old city center, and Torre del Parco, located in an actual castle, and we preferred Pollicastro by far. Every detail there, from the vibe to the hospitality and cleanliness, were perfect. This is also the time to make an afternoon trip to visit the famed Grotto della Poesia, a photo-worthy swimming hole that fills up to the brim during August, when Italians are all on summer vacation.
Finally, take the hour-long drive back up north to the seaside town of Polignano a Mare. Though you can definitely decide to come here at the front end of your journey, we liked ending the trip in such a scenic, relaxing destination that put us only half an hour from Bari. We celebrated Tori’s birthday there at the stunning Grotta Palazzese, a one-of-a-kind restaurant that sits on the precipice of a sea cave—looking out onto the water. Make sure to book your meal far ahead of time, and my top tip is to make your reservation for early in the evening, so that you can snag one of the best tables in the house.
A recipe…the Limoncello Spritz (with homemade limoncello)
The perfect summer cocktail to help put you in the mood to book a trip to Italy? The Limoncello Spritz—a lighter and less bitter counterpart to the Aperol Spritz. If you have time, I highly recommend making your limoncello at home following this recipe I wrote for Thrillist. It takes a few weeks, but is so fun and easy to make, and a great use of typically discarded lemon peels.
Limoncello Spritz (serves one)
2 ounces chilled limoncello
3 ounces chilled Prosecco
1 ounce soda water
One sprig of mint
Fill your cup with ice, then pour in the chilled limoncello. Top with Prosecco and soda water and give it a stir to combine. Garnish with a sprig of mint and lemon wheel if desired.
Where I’m to traveling next…Washington, DC
Once my home base, I’m heading back down to DC soon for a close friend’s wedding.
❤️